The Italian word for ‘pigeon’ is ‘colombo,’ which makes me think that if they could speak they would sound just like Peter Falk. Like any city, Napoli has it’s share of these oft-vilified birds. “Rats with wings, ” people scoff, “spreading disease!” To which I counter that, while I’ve never caught a cold from a pigeon, I’ve certainly caught plenty from my own species. If you think about it, people and pigeons have much in common: we’re opportunistic, we like french fries, and we enjoy hanging out in parks with our pals.

Walking and talking are two of life’s simple pleasures and Neapolitans indulge often in both. It’s not considered strange if you don’t have a driver’s license. In fact, Angelo, who grew up here, didn’t get his license until he moved to the USA. His mother has never had one. It’s understandable, though: people here like to walk, mass transit is efficient, and city driving is crazy.

Driving in Napoli is the closest thing I’ve experienced to high-paced racing video games. I don’t know how they do it. I’ve yet to master the art of crossing the street. Jaywalking is definitely a survival skill. When I’m out with Angelo and his family, they always make sure someone has a firm grip on my arm before we cross busy streets. “Look them in the eye!” his Aunt coaches, “Make them stop for you.” But I wimp out when I’m alone. I slipstream confident-looking locals to get across the big boulevards. I never go solo!

This part of town is well-patrolled, and when they aren’t giving directions or otherwise helping out, the cops stand around and - you guessed it - talk! I’ve even seen them take part in a quick caffe with their comrades. (An exception to this are the cops in front of the US Embassy. They sit in vans with pop-tops and machines guns and they don’t have time for chit chat.)

I-see a lot of affection on my strolls through town, and I’m not just talking about the lovers smooching along the promenade. It’s common to see teenaged boys walking with their arms around each other, engaged in lively conversation, or women friends walking hand-in-hand as they window shop. Of course, all this walking and talking lets Neapolitans indulge in a third pleasure: gelato!